Field Work: Day 23 Part 2, The Good Stuff

While data collection morale is at an all time low, the “vacation” aspect of this trip has been going quite well. Over the weekend we visited Universidad del Valle Guatemala- Altiplano for a conference-type thing and spent the night in Antigua. I gave a presentation at UVG on my research and why I’m interested in it, in Spanish, which was a massively anxiety-provoking event.

Luckily I had some borrowed Xanax, so when my presentation time came I was cool as a cucumber. About the same time I started to feel flustered (about halfway through my presentation) a loud marimba band kicked up right outside the door, which gave me time to recollect my thoughts and get back into a proper groove. I also got to make a joke about doing the rest of my presentation in interpretive dance, which was fun.

From UVG we went to Antigua. The bus ride was long and only semi-torturous towards the end when we got stuck in traffic in Chimaltenango, but reggaeton and Trivial Pursuit helped us keep our sanity.

We went out drinking and dancing on Friday night. I’ve decided that Café No Sé is my very favorite bar on the planet. It was dark as all hell inside, they only serve beer & mezcal, and they had old school 40’s-50’s bluesy rock playing over the speakers, in addition to a live jazz band up front. There’s also an attached bookstore that offers a free beer when you buy a book worth 40Q or more!

Dancing was also very fun; it was the first time I’ve ever been and I bought a “fancy” dress just for the occasion. Towards the end of the night, one fellow did get extremely handsy and wasn’t listening to my “NO” that I was shouting over the salsa music, so I ended up grabbing his hand and biting it. Apparently hard biting gets the message across, in case you ever need to fend off overly-touchy salsa dancers.

On Saturday morning, despite all the mezcal and tequila the night before, I felt excellent and alive enough to hike up to the Cerro de la Cruz.

Antigua is so beautiful from Cerro de La Cruz, even when Volcan de Agua is covered with clouds.

A post shared by Emily Speed (@em42speed) on Jun 17, 2017 at 1:44pm PDT

I spent the rest of the day sort of aimlessly wandering, showing others in the group around the city, and buying souvenirs and gifts for people back home (in Patzún and in the States!).

I did get pickpocketed about 300Q at some point, didn’t buy a set of brass knuckles that I really wanted to get and in retrospect totally should have, and for lunch on Sat I had a side salad that made Saturday night and Sunday completely miserable, but it can’t all be perfect all the time, can it?

 

The collapsed roof of the cathedral in Antigua #Guatemala #USUsummer #AggieTravel #UMDfieldschool

A post shared by Emily Speed (@em42speed) on Jun 17, 2017 at 4:43pm PDT

//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js

Field Work: Day 23 Data Doldrums

So, the school that was arranged for me to do data collection in seems to be a bust in general. There’s Kaqchikel in use in the classrooms, but anecdotally they don’t seem to be in use during lessons. Not having permission to observe lessons themselves, I’m not entirely sure there’s any Kaqchikel content being taught. Any Kaqchikel use is certainly not in math lessons- one of the young girls I spoke to could only count to 5 in Kaqchikel.

Of course, I haven’t been able to collect any data yet at all, now going into my second week of data collection time. I’ve only had 4 consent forms signed and returned, and only 2 of those have answered phone calls regarding setting up appointments. I do (finally) have appointments set up for tomorrow and Wednesday afternoon. Gods willing those kids actually show up.

There does seem to be another problem with the school. It’s a Catholic school, taught by nuns. I didn’t arrange for this school, and it was the only one made available to me besides one that would be an hour’s bus trip away. There’s just something a little culturally OFF about a Catholic school purporting itself to do culturally sensitive bilingual education in a Latin American country that they assisted in the conquest of. The education here is probably slightly closer to the quality to that of the education in the public schools in the states that I’ll be comparing my data to, but without actual observations of the classrooms I just cannot be sure.

In any case, the data from the 2+ that I get here won’t be great and won’t be immediately comparable to data collected in Utah. It’ll be more like a case study… which would be okay if I actually had a more detailed questionnaire or any sort of approved plan for qualitative data collection.

This is great. Everything is fine.

Field Work: Day 17 The Research Begins

Update: The title changed from “Field School: Day X” to “Field Work: Day X” to indicate the change in content of my days here. Instead of taking language classes, I’m conducting my investigations and collecting data!

Kaqchikel classes came to a bittersweet end on Friday. Honestly I could do with another few months of classes but definitely not to the same extent of immersion that these were. After two weeks, we were all quite happy to see the tail end of eight hour days of seemingly nonstop Kaqchikel. To celebrate, we got a pizza, a cake, and a piñata! Jokes were made about filling the piñata with ceviche, but luckily for us all we went for the more traditional candy filling. We also wrote little “matyoxinika” or “thank you speeches” that we read out to our teachers and to the class. Unfortunately I got nervous when I read mine and skipped a line… but that’s okay. We all mess up sometimes, especially when we’re doing public speaking in a language we’ve only been speaking for two weeks!

It’s amazing how much we learned in nine and a half days of classes though. Unfortunately because I’m not a linguist like my fellow group members, I’m not doing a linguistics project that requires my speaking in depth with my host family in Kaqchikel, so I don’t think I learned at the same depth and it’s escaping me a little faster than it is the others. My host family and I are still using Kaqchikel together, even more so than during classes… I think they could tell that I was disappointed that classes were over and wanted to keep helping me learn.

On the bright side, my own research project started bright and early this morning when I went to the bilingual school at 7 am to talk to the principal about using the facilities after the school day. After I drop my informed consent letters off with the kids shortly and get them back tomorrow morning, I will be able to start talking to kids about their numerical knowledge and asking them all sorts of fun math questions! Hopefully I’ll be able to get 10-15 kids run through my procedure before my time here is up and I have to return to Utah.

While I might not be getting the 40 children I’d hoped for, I’m having exactly as much fun as expected, if not more. Coming to Patzún with 14 other graduate students has resulted in a lot of unexpected entertainment, like threats of ceviche-filled piñatas, our laughter when Kawoq says “tachapan” and makes grabby-hands motions, and even at our own horrible grammar and pronunciation mistakes.

We’ve also gone on a few adventures, on our own and in groups. On June 4, we visited the Reserva Natural Atítlan in Panajachel and the weaving co-ops in San Juan La Laguna. I loved the nature reserve; despite having spent more than 4 weeks total in Pana, I’d never visited before. The waterfalls and rope bridges were a total surprise, and seeing spider monkeys and coati roam around in the jungly underbrush was delightful. While walking through the windy hiking paths in the reserves, it was hard not to imagine a hunter quietly walking through the jungle with me, spear at the ready for some unknown prey. It seemed to me that a jaguar could leap out at any moment, even though the nature reserve is closed off and there are no jaguars near Panajachel anymore.

Rope bridge across a waterfall #UMDfieldschool #Guatemala #USUsummer

A post shared by Emily Speed (@em42speed) on Jun 4, 2017 at 9:59am PDT

 

As always, crossing the lake from Panajachel to San Juan La Laguna was my favorite part of the day. Having grown up near the water, I’ve spent a bit of time on boats and never truly seen the appeal (apart from one sailing lesson after which I would have sailed every day but somehow, never managed to get onto a sailboat again). However, something about the lake just speaks to me on a really spiritual level. Maybe it’s the volcanoes that border the lake.

I’m in love with a lake. #USUsummer #UMDfieldschool #AggieTravel

A post shared by Emily Speed (@em42speed) on Jun 4, 2017 at 10:53am PDT

 

Last Wednesday (June 7) we visited the aj q’ij, the daykeeper that keeps track of the Mayan calendar, advises people on what to do on certain days, and performs ceremonies. He told us about how the chol q’ij, or sacred Mayan calendar, works and described some of the personality attributes that are associated with people born on each of the 20 days. This is something I happen to know a bit about already, having done some of my own research on the Mayan calendar system and how it relates to the development of the base-20 numerical system (hint: it has to do with Venus!), but it was awesome to hear it firsthand from a knowledgeable source instead of reading it from some website or in a book.

Visiting the Aj Q’ij, the day keeper. #Guatemala #mayancalendar #USUsummer #UMDfieldschool

A post shared by Emily Speed (@em42speed) on Jun 7, 2017 at 9:14am PDT

 

Last weekend, some of us visited Iximché while others attended a wedding here in Patzún. I visited Iximché last April with Habitat for Humanity, but apparently visiting during the rainy season is where it’s at. The grass was green and lush, and the fog and clouds hung over the temple making everything seem perhaps even more ancient and powerful than it is.

Temple 1, Iximche. #USUsummer #UMDfieldschool #AggieTravel #Guatemala

A post shared by Emily Speed (@em42speed) on Jun 10, 2017 at 10:31am PDT

 

Between Iximché and the nature reserve and the lake, it’s becoming more and more obvious why the post-Classisal Kaqchikel Mayans would blossom here. I don’t mean to get mystical, but there’s just something profoundly spiritual about this place. So many people here in Patzún still speak Kaqchikel despite the constant linguistic pressure of Spanish, still wear the traditional clothes despite the cultural pressure from the north… Even in the cities and the towns where the Spanish influence is unavoidable, there’s always this feeling for me that something ancient and powerful is going on in the background. But it’s just the volcano Acatenango, quietly sleeping on the southeast horizon.

Field School: Day 10

I need to learn how to cook. If I’m going to come live in Guatemala for any extended length of time, I cannot rely on restaurants. Restaurants offer food of uncertain quality cooked in uncertain conditions, which leads to certain gastrointestinal distress. I’ve learned this the hard way. On the bright side, there is a reliable 24/7 pharmacy near school that is willing to dole out antibiotics to gringas. This, too, I learned the hard way. My performance in Kaqchikel class suffered a bit on Thursday and Friday before I figured that out though. 

Kaqchikel class is amazing. We’ve learned so much in such a short time. I feel like I understand spoken Kaqchikel much better than I can produce it, however. Particularly when I’m called upon in class, all the Kaqchikel just disappears from my reach and I’m stuck floundering around like a goof with strange syllables and complicated verb prefixes. In this, I appreciate (and rue) being surrounded by linguists. Getting a handle on grammatical differences is somewhat simpler when you can ask the linguistics professor sitting next to you… You just can’t expect a LING101 level answer from them, which is admittedly what I probably need. 

I’m getting more comfortable in Patzún as well. I can find my way home from school, from the café where we meet after school, and from the director’s house where we go for lunch. I know how to find the central square, the market, and the grocery store from my house. I know where the most reliable ATM is. I can even find the skateshop and the mill where my host tía goes to grind the corn for tortilla dough. 

My host family is without a doubt amazing. They’re exactly the kind of people I want in my life. My tía went to the grocery store in the other side of town specifically to get rice for me when my stomach was upset. They invite me to come with them whenever they go out, even if it’s just to the little tiendita one street over for firewood. They’ve made me feel extraordinarily welcome in their home. I’m trying to come up with a good gift to get for my tía’s birthday tomorrow, but the only hints my hermanas will give me is that she wants a cake. I guess I’m getting a cake!

Field School: Day 4

My brain is fried. I think I may have mentioned that in a prior blog post, but it’s extra true today. Super fried. Two full days of classes has me feeling like my brain is about to pour out my ears if I tilt it too far to one side. I didn’t write anything except vocabulary and sample sentences in my bullet journal today, which is extraordinarily strange. Normally I have some kind of notes about how my day was, where I went, interesting things that happened… None of that today. Just notes upon notes about Kaqchikel vocabulary.

We did go over numbers today, which made me so extraordinarily happy as to actually dance around and clap. I was so thrilled to actually know something in advance and be able to help people out a little bit that weren’t catching on. There will be a whole post about Mayan numerals and what’s going on there, so stay tuned.

 

The family dynamic is getting a little easier as well. I have a tía (aunt) and two hermanas (sisters) as well as a sobrino (nephew) now.